1960s Universal Geneve Uni- Compax (Ref. 884100/02) “Big Eye”

Universal Genève has long been regarded as the watch enthusiast’s watch—a brand with a cult-like following that has quietly endured outside the glare of the mainstream. While never a mass-market name, Universal Genève is responsible for some of the most influential designs in horology, including the Gérald Genta–designed Polerouter, the iconic “Nina Rindt” Compax chronographs, and the ultra-complicated Tri-Compax famously worn by Eric Clapton.

Founded in 1894 in Le Locle as Universal Watch by Ulysse Perret and Numa Descombes, the company began as a specialist manufacturer of watch components. As its technical expertise expanded, so did its ambitions. A move to Geneva in 1919 marked the birth of Universal Genève, and by 1925 the brand had already introduced its first automatic movement, the Auto-Rem. Across its broad catalogue—spanning dress watches, tool chronographs, and complications—Universal Genève maintained a defining throughline: elegance paired with technical integrity.

The Uni-Compax chronograph stands as one of the brand’s most celebrated creations. Introduced in the 1930s and refined over subsequent decades, the Uni-Compax is distinguished by its two-register layout, balanced proportions, and reliable in-house calibers. Coveted by collectors for its wide range of dial configurations and case styles, the Uni-Compax perfectly encapsulates Universal Genève’s ability to blend functionality with timeless design.

The ref. 884100/02, more commonly known as the “Big Eye”, is perhaps the most recognizable and collectible Uni-Compax reference. Its defining feature is the dramatically oversized minute counter at three o’clock, creating a striking asymmetry rarely seen in wristwatches of the era. The dial itself offers far more than novelty: a satin center contrasts against a metallic outer track for a mesmerizing two-tone effect, intersected by a vivid red crosshair that extends seamlessly into the sub-dials. An applied logo and blued steel hands add further depth and visual intrigue, catching the light with subtle brilliance.

Seldom encountered and genuinely rare, the “Big Eye” remains one of Universal Genève’s most compelling chronographs of the 1960s. This particular example stands out even further, preserved in exceptional condition and representing a remarkable opportunity to acquire one of the brand’s most distinctive and historically significant designs.