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1950s Aero Watch Tripe Calendar Moonphase Chronograph 18K YG 'Valjoux Cal. 88'
This Aero Watch triple calendar moonphase chronograph may come from a lesser-known name in Swiss watchmaking, but at its heart beats one of the most celebrated chronograph calibers of the 20th century: the Valjoux 88.
Produced from 1947 through the mid-1970s, the Valjoux 88 is part of the legendary Valjoux 72 family—a hand-wound column-wheel chronograph lineage that defined mid-century watchmaking. The 88 elevated the base architecture with a triple calendar and moon phase complication, making it one of the most complete and desirable manually wound movements of its era. Its design and execution placed it firmly in the company of more prestigious houses, with the same movement family powering watches from Universal Genève, Heuer, Longines, and even serving as a conceptual counterpart to the Patek Philippe Ref. 1518—the world’s first serially produced perpetual calendar chronograph.
While the Patek Philippe ref. 1518 commands prices in the millions, watches housing the Valjoux 88 remain an extraordinary way for collectors to access the same spirit of technical achievement at a fraction of the cost. The balance of complexity, historical significance, and beauty of the caliber’s layout ensures that these watches remain highly collectible, regardless of the name on the dial.
Cased here in solid 18K yellow gold, this 1950s Aero Watch example offers both period elegance and one of the finest chronograph movements of its time—an under-the-radar piece with blue-chip horological DNA.
SPECS
| Stock # | AROWAVAL88 | |
| Brand | Aero Watch | |
| Style | Tripe Calendar Moonphase Chronograph | |
| Model | N/A | |
| Serial | 12XXXX | |
| Size | Men's | |
| Material | 18K Yellow Gold | |
| Dial | Silver | |
| Millimeters | 36 | |
| Strap | 2pc Leather Strap |
CASE & BRACELET
The impressive, solid 18K yellow gold case features tall, thin lugs that retain crisp edges and finishing, with only gentle signs of previous use present. The solid 18K yellow gold bezel shows only light signs of previous use. The case retains its original square chronograph pushers, which show some minor loss to the gold plating. The setting pushers located on the left side of the case are also original. The crown is believed to be an early replacement. The case back features a faint hand engraving that reads "For Outstanding Salesmanship, W. J. Kelly", along with the factory serial number, which remains deep and crisp. The watch comes supplied on a 2pc leather strap.
DIAL & HANDS
The original silver dial is both beautiful and very well balanced aesthetically despite being packed with complications. Featuring the day and month windows just below the 12 o'clock, the running seconds in the 9 o'clock sub-dial, the 30-minute recorder in the 3 o'clock sub-dial, and the 12-hour recorder in the 6 o'clock sub-dial, which also houses the moonphase disk. The date is displayed in bold red text on the outer edge of the dial and is indicated by a matching red pointer-date hand. The tachymeter scale is located between the red date track and inner minute track in light blue print. The dial itself exhibits light signs of expected age, with some minor marks and spots present, though no noticeable damage is apparent. The original solid yellow gold kite hands are in excellent condition, and the center chronograph hand and sub-dial hands all remain in a matching blued steel finish. The moonphase disc has achieved a charming tropical brown patina, which is common for early moonphase watches.
ACCESSORIES
None. The watch is keeping time and functioning correctly; the service history is unknown. A movement service can be purchased upon request.