Universal Geneve

1940s Universal Geneve Dress Watch (Ref. 20504)

$ 1,450

Universal Geneve has long been "the watch enthusiast's watch" as the brand's cult-like, but steadily growing following has remained out of the scope of the mega-mainstream. The brand isn't without a few icons however, boasting unmistakable models such as the Gerald Genta-designed Polerouter, the "Nina Rindt" Compax chronographs, and the ultra-complicated Tri-Compax that Eric Clapton made famous for wearing.

Born in 1894 LeLocle, Switzerland as Universal Watch, the co-founders Ulysee Perret and Numa Descombes originally set out as a watch part manufacturer, but as their business grew so did their offerings. In 1919 they moved their operation to Geneva, officially creating Universal Geneve. By 1925, UG had designed its first automatic movement known as the Auto Rem.

Though Universal Geneve eventually produced a broad range of watches intended for vastly different applications, each model shared one crucial commonality, elegance.


Stock # UG20504
Brand Universal Geneve
Style Dress Watch
Model 20504
Serial 25XXXXX
Size Men's
Material Stainless Steel
Dial Silver "Aged"
Millimeters 34
Bracelet 2pc Handmade Leather Strap



The well-preserved case features charming design elements that elevate the classical design, like the rounded and brushed extension of the case between the lugs as well as the long curved lugs themselves. The case exhibits gentle signs of use with no signs of major previous polishing. The Universal Geneve signed crown is likely an early service unit. The screw-down case back is very rare for the era and extremely well preserved, with all of the original factory markings fully intact.


The original and beautifully aged dial offers an extravagant vintage aesthetic with a military-style dial format. There are two small but notable marks on the dial above the handstack. The radium-lumed numerals all remain intact and have aged to a contrasting dark grey patina, under UV light inspection minimal degradation is present but not noticeable to the naked eye. The original blue hands and red sweep seconds hand remain in impressive condition, the hour and minute hands have been professionally restored with radium to a vintage cream color, matching the overall aesthetic of the watch.


None. The watch is keeping time, but the service history is unknown. A movement service can be provided upon request.