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1960s Favre-Leuba Bivouac (Ref. 53203) Blue Dial

$ 6,500

Despite being less familiar to many collectors than some of its Swiss contemporaries, Favre-Leuba holds a remarkable place in horological history. Founded in 1737, it is the second-oldest continuously operating Swiss watch manufacture, with nearly three centuries of innovation behind its name.

Throughout the 20th century, Favre-Leuba distinguished itself by developing highly specialized tool watches built for explorers, mountaineers, and professionals operating in extreme environments. Among its greatest achievements was the introduction of the Bivouac in 1962, the world's first wristwatch equipped with a fully functional aneroid barometer. Powered by the in-house manual-winding Caliber 10032, the Bivouac allowed its wearer to simultaneously tell the time while measuring atmospheric pressure and estimating altitude, a groundbreaking accomplishment that predated the age of electronic outdoor instruments by decades.

The Bivouac quickly earned a reputation as a serious expedition companion. Legendary Italian mountaineer Walter Bonatti famously relied on one during his first ascent of Pointe Whymper's north face and later on the Matterhorn, while renowned French polar explorer Paul-Émile Victor wore the model throughout his celebrated Endless Ice expeditions. At a time when exploration captured the world's imagination, the Bivouac represented the pinnacle of mechanical ingenuity and practical adventure.

The striking blue-dial variant offered here is among the rarest and most desirable executions of the reference. Preserved in exceptional condition, its vivid blue barometric scale and bold black center create one of the most visually captivating designs of the era. More than simply an uncommon colorway, it perfectly embodies the optimism and adventurous spirit of the 1960s, a period when mechanical innovation empowered mankind to push ever farther into the unknown.

SPECS

Stock # FVLBB53203
Brand Favre-Leuba
Style Bivouac
Model 53203
Serial 67X
Size Men's
Material Stainless Steel
Dial Black / Blue
Millimeters 40
Bracelet Favre-Leuba "JB Champion" Bracelet

 

CASE & BRACELET

The well-preserved and honest case features light wear throughout, while retaining its factory dimensions and geometry, with minimal evidence of prior polishing present. The original bidirectional ratcheting bezel is in excellent condition, with no fading and only gentle wear present. The case retains its original Favre-Leuba signed crown. The case back is also in great condition, with all of the factory markings fully present. The original Favre-Leuba stainless steel bracelet made by JB Champion is in excellent condition, showing minimal signs of use and only light stretch. The bracelet retains 22 links and will fit up to a 7.5-inch wrist.

DIAL & HANDS

The original two-tone matte black and powder blue dial remain in excellent condition, showing nominal wear and no damage. The tritium lume plots features degradation throughout when inspected under UV light and feature a cream patina present. The original tritium lume hands have acheived a dark beige patina and exhibit no degradation under UV light.

ACCESSORIES 

None. The watch is keeping time ; the aneroid barometer is also functional. Though, the service history is unknown. A movement service can be purchased upon request.