Gerald Genta

1970s Gerald Genta Dress Watch 18K WG "Piece Unique for Collet Geneve" Ebony Wood Dial W/ Original Retailer Box & Strap

$ 19,500

When most collectors hear the name Gérald Genta, they immediately think of the Royal Oak, Nautilus, and Ingenieur. While those watches helped define modern horology, they represent only one side of Genta's creative legacy.

This remarkable 18K white gold automatic is believed to be a piece-unique creation, as we have been unable to locate another example despite extensive research. More importantly, it showcases Genta at his most artistic and unconventional. The sculptural 3-piece case flows seamlessly around what is believed to be an ebony wood dial, creating a watch that feels more like a wearable work of art than a traditional timepiece. Free of markers, complications, or unnecessary decoration, the design emphasizes form, material, and proportion rather than the mere act of telling time.

Adding further intrigue is the watch's provenance; it was acquired from the family of the original owner, who was associated with A. Collet SA, the historic Geneva jeweler known for its bespoke creations and discerning international clientele. According to the family, the watch was gifted personally by Gérald Genta, a story that feels entirely consistent with the watch itself. Rather than a commercial product designed for production, it possesses the character of a deeply personal creation, conceived without the usual constraints of the marketplace. The watch retains its original Collet Genève-signed strap, matching 18k white gold buckle, and is accompanied by its original Collet Genève clamshell-style box.

The details hidden beneath the caseback further support the watch's significance. The interior is signed "Gerald Genta Swiss" and hallmarked for 18k gold, while the automatic movement is signed "Gerald Genta / Ebel Swiss" and designated Caliber 170, which is based on the ultra-thin ETA 2670 architecture. The movement reflects the collaborative nature of Swiss watchmaking during the period while allowing the emphasis to remain squarely on Genta's extraordinary design. 

This is not the Gérald Genta most collectors know. It is something rarer: a glimpse into the mind of Gérald Genta, the artist.

SPECS

Stock # GGDWWGPU
Brand Gerald Genta
Style Dress Watch
Model The "Collet"
Serial 2273
Size Men's
Material 18K White Gold
Dial Ebony Wood
Millimeters 32x32
Strap 2pc Leather Strap

  

CASE & BRACELET

The 18k white gold case remains in exceptional overall condition, showing no evidence of polishing and only the most minimal signs of careful wear consistent with age. The sculptural case retains its original proportions, crisp definition, and flowing architectural lines throughout. The watch is fitted with its original brown alligator "Collet" strap and retains its original 18k white-gold Gérald Genta buckle. Executed in the same sculptural language as the case itself, the buckle mirrors the watch's distinctive design and represents an increasingly rare and desirable original accessory.

DIAL & HANDS

The dial, believed to be crafted from ebony wood, remains in flawless condition, showing no signs of cracking, warping, degradation, or damage. The rich natural grain of the wood remains fully visible, creating a subtle depth and texture that shifts beautifully under changing light. The original white-gold baton handset remains equally well preserved, exhibiting no oxidation, corrosion, or notable wear. Both hands retain their original finish and provide an elegant contrast against the dark ebony dial

ACCESSORIES 

Original Collet suede box that was sourced with the watch. The watch is keeping time and functioning perfectly; previous service history is unknown. A movement service can be purchased upon request.