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*Unpolished* 1970s LeJour "Reference 12" Chronograph PVD 'Valjoux Cal. 7734'
The 1970s marked a fascinating chapter in Heuer's history, as the company quietly supplied complete chronographs to select distributors and retailers under private-label agreements. Facing financial pressures despite its reputation for innovation, Heuer leveraged its manufacturing expertise by producing watches that would be sold under other brand names, creating what collectors now affectionately refer to as "Poor Man's Heuers." While these watches carried different logos on the dial, they often shared the same cases, movements, and overall architecture as their Heuer-branded counterparts, offering an exceptional value proposition that has become increasingly appreciated by collectors.
Among the beneficiaries of this arrangement was LeJour, a French distributor that marketed a number of Heuer-produced chronographs throughout the 70s and 80s. This striking "Reference 12" is one of the closest relatives to its Heuer counterpart, utilizing the same rugged case design and the proven manual-winding Valjoux Cal. 7734 chronograph movement with date complication. Finished in its original black PVD coating, the watch delivers the unmistakable military-inspired aesthetic that defined the era and would later achieve pop-culture fame through a very similar watch, the Porsche Design by Orfina chronograph worn by Pete "Maverick" Mitchell, portrayed by Tom Cruise in Top Gun.
Preserved in honest, unpolished condition, this LeJour captures the bold design language of one of the most collectible generations of tool chronographs while remaining one of the most compelling and accessible entries into the world of vintage Heuer-built watches.
SPECS
| Stock # | LJCHRREF12PVD | |
| Brand | LeJour | |
| Style | Chronograph | |
| Model | Reference 12 | |
| Serial | 13.X | |
| Size | Men's | |
| Material | Stainless Steel W/ Factory PVD Finish | |
| Dial | Matte Black | |
| Millimeters | 40 | |
| Strap | 2pc Canvas/Rubber Strap |
CASE & BRACELET
The unpolished case remains in excellent condition, retaining its original factory PVD finish with minimal fading present, and only minor signs of use. The original mineral glass crystal exhibits very minor signs of use. The case retains its original PVD-finished pump pushers and unsigned crown. The case back retains all of its original factory finishing and markings, with subtle wear present. The watch comes supplied on a 2pc canvas and rubber green strap.
DIAL & HANDS
The matte black dial is in virtually perfect condition, showing no damage or age. The tritium lume plots have achieved a pumpkin patina and exhibit no degradation when inspected under UV light. The original tritium hands have aged a shade lighter than the dial but match the overall aesthetic of the watch and exhibit no degradation.
ACCESSORIES
None. The watch is running and keeping time, previous service history is unknown. A movement service can be purchased upon request.