1980s Cartier Must de Cartier Tank Vermeil (Ref. 590005) Quartz W/ Breguet Dial

The Cartier Tank has become one of the most iconic watch designs of all time, and has remained relatively the same over its long run of production. It was originally designed in 1917—inspired by the Renault FT-17 tank used by the French Military in the First World War—and became commercially available in 1919. 

The Tank is the perfect example of excellent design transcending generations. It moved through the early 20th century only to become more relevant during the mid-century design era, and is once again seeing a massive resurgence amongst the watch-collecting community today.

The Must de Cartier line was released as a diffusion, or a more attainable and affordable version of the classic Tank. Often featured in Vermeil or "silver gilt” cases, which are comprised of gold-plated sterling silver, with unique and intricately designed dials. In this instance, the uncommon dial featured on this Must de Cartier Tank features a center step for added dimension and beautiful Breguet numerals.

Stock # CTRMDC590005
Brand Cartier Must de Cartier
Style Tank Quartz
Model 59005
Serial 19XXX
Size Men's/Unisex
Material Vermeil
Dial Silver W/ Breguet Numerals
Millimeters 23 x 30
Bracelet Cartier Black Leather Strap W/ Cartier Gold Plaque Deployant Buckle


The classic tank-style vermeil case is believed to remain unpolished with the overall factory dimensions remaining very impressive throughout the case and case back with extremely deep and crisp hallmarks and factory markings present. The case shows minor signs of gentle use. The watch retains its original blue sapphire cabochon crown. The watch comes supplied on a lightly worn Cartier strap with a gold plaque Cartier deployant buckle.


The original and uncommon silver dial featuring beautiful Breguet numerals and a center step is in flawless condition. The original blued hands are also in perfect condition.


None. The watch is functioning and keeping time. The watch recently received a new battery.