Universal Geneve

Tropical 1950s Universal Geneve Polerouter (Ref. 20360-1)

This Universal Geneve Polerouter is a gorgeous piece of horological history. Designed by Gerald Genta, one of the most influential watch designers ever, and the man behind some of the most iconic timepieces in existence, including the Patek Philippe Nautilus and the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak

Universal Genève SA was one of the most recognized watch companies in both Europe and the U.S. in the post-war era, mostly recognized for their chronograph models. But after Universal Genève settled a patent dispute regarding the micro-rotor caliber of movement, they released what would become their most popular watch – the Polerouter. Originally manufactured as the Polarouter in 1954, it contained the Cal. 138SS bumper movement which was then quickly replaced with the Cal. 215 micro rotator movements which also resulted in a subtle name change from Polarouter to Polerouter.

The Polerouter had taken on many variations within its first 15 years of production including Polerouter De Luxe, Polerouter Genève, Polerouter Compact, Polerouter Super, Polerouter "NS", Polerouter III, Polerouter Jet, and the Polerouter Sub. This iteration, though, with its beautiful no-date "tuxedo" dial, is one of the most recognizable versions, and one that would make for an excellent addition to any collection.


Stock # UGPR203601
Brand Universal Geneve
Style Polerouter
Model 20360-1
Serial N/A
Size Men's
Material Stainless Steel
Dial Brown "Tropical"
Millimeters 35
Strap 2pc Handmade Leather Strap


The wonderful twisted lug case retains strong geometry throughout with honest signs of use present with minimal evidence of previous polishing shown. The Universal Geneve crown appears to be an early replacement. The case back retains its original Polerouter brand crest engraving, though it remains faint, the case exhibits some light wear and corrosion. The watch comes supplied on a 2pc handmade leather strap.


The original and genuinely beautiful gilt dial would have come from the factory with a glossy black finish, though it has aged to achieve a remarkably vibrant brown "tropical" coloration. The dial itself remains in excellent condition given its age, with a subtle yet attractive texture that is present throughout. The radium lume plots remain intact throughout the dial and display mild degradation when inspected under UV light. The original dauphine hands exhibit no lume degradation though the lume has taken on a black coloration and the hands exhibit normal oxidation for the age.


None. The watch is keeping time perfectly, but the service history is unknown. A movement service can be provided upon request.