1940s Movado M95 Chronograph 18K YG (Ref. 9018) Black Gilt Dial W/ Ornate Pushers

Movado stands as a perfect example of what makes vintage watches so captivating compared to their modern counterparts. During the mid-century, the brand competed directly with the likes of Rolex and Patek Philippe, earning acclaim for its design innovation and craftsmanship. Movado firmly established itself as a premium manufacturer, one whose influence continues to resonate throughout the watch industry today.

The Movado M90 and M95 chronographs, for example, remain today as some of the most sought-after, collectible, and incredibly beautiful wristwatches to come out of the mid-century era of watch design. This revolutionary modular chronograph movement was designed by renowned watchmaker, Frederic Piguet, in 1938 for the M90 caliber and the following year for the M95. The most notable difference between the two movements is the number of registers, with the M90 employing two registers while the M95 employs three.

Interestingly, the operation of the caliber M95 is inverted from conventional chronographs, with the bottom pusher starting and stopping the chronograph and the top pusher resetting it.

The Movado M95 has long been celebrated by collectors as one of the most elegant and compelling vintage chronographs ever produced. While many references utilized the revered M95 movement, the most sought-after examples are often those housed in cases manufactured by François Borgel, the legendary case maker behind iconic Patek Philippe references such as the ref. 1463 “Tasti Tondi” and ref. 565. This particular example showcases Borgel’s distinguished cylinder-style case design, featuring slender pointed lugs and beautifully ornate pushers that evoke the timeless sophistication of its famed Patek counterpart.

What truly sets this watch apart, however, is its exceptionally rare black gilt dial. Striking, refined, and endlessly charismatic, the dial elevates an already desirable chronograph into an extraordinary collector’s piece, blending technical pedigree with unmistakable mid-century luxury

SPECS

Stock #		MOVM95-4
Brand		Movado
Style		'Cal. M95' Chronograph
Model		9018
Serial		1037XX
Size		Men's
Material		18K Yellow Gold
Dial		Glossy Black "Gilt"
Millimeters		33
Strap		2pc Leather Strap

CASE & BRACELET

The impressively crisp 18K yellow gold cylinder case retains sharp factory finishing throughout, with well-defined geometry across its slender, pointed lugs and deep, clearly visible hallmarks. Showing only minimal evidence of past polishing, the case remains exceptionally well-preserved with signs of only gentle prior wear. Its original ornate “Tasti Tondi” pump pushers are equally sharp and remain in excellent condition. The crown is believed to be an early service replacement. The screw-down case back also remains remarkably crisp, exhibiting only light wear from use. The last four digits on the serial stamped on the inside of the case back match the four digit serial of the mid-case. The watch is fitted on a two-piece leather strap.

DIAL & HANDS

The original and exceptionally rare black gilt dial is beautifully preserved, presenting in excellent vintage condition, particularly considering its age. The dial shows minor, expected aging around the radium lume plots, largely imperceptible to the naked eye and expected for the materials used, while the 11 o’clock marker displays slightly more pronounced aging, including a small area of lacquer loss. The radium lume plots have developed an attractive sandy patina and exhibit only nominal degradation under UV light inspection. The original radium hands match the dial almost perfectly, having aged only a shade lighter than the dial lume, and exhibit no degradation under UV light inspection.