1960s Blancpain Fifty-Fathoms "Barakuda"

Few companies carry a history that can rival Blancpain SA, which is recognized as being the first watch brand dating back to 1735 with an extensive pedigree of inventions and innovations within the now vast world of horology. The Blancpain dive watches are one of the most important innovations of the brand's history.

The idea for the Blancpain Fifty Fathoms was conceived in 1952, when French Navy members requested a wristwatch that was waterproof enough to withstand the pressures endured during the diving missions required of the elite team of combat “Frogmen” divers, also known today as a dive watch. The task of finding this watch was famously taken on by French Navy officers Captain Robert “Bob” Maloubier & Lieutenant Claude Riffaud, who after testing numerous "waterproof" watches at the time failed to find a fit for their tactical requirements. While these requirements may seem stock-standard today, in 1952 they were groundbreaking. A wristwatch that was water-resistant enough to survive a diving-based combat mission, but was also visible enough to be easily read underwater, even at night. Since no watch like this existed at the time, Capt. Maloubier created the blueprints for what would become the world's first diving watch, and sent them to various notable watchmakers to manufacture. Though, at the time most watchmaking brands were focused on manufacturing aviation watches, and weren't interested in making hyper-waterproof watches.

However, their luck would come to fruition when Capt. Maloubier and Lt. Riffaud engaged with Jean-Jacques Fiechter, the CEO of Blancpain SA from 1950 to 1980. Being a diver himself, Fiechter not only accepted the requirements to produce the timepiece for the elite combat diving team but improved upon the design, resulting in a product that not only adhered to the specifications set forth by the French Navy but innovated the watch industry as a whole.

(Capt. Bob Maloubier wearing a Blancpain Fifty Fathoms)

The Fifty Fathoms "Barakuda" was originally issued to the German Navy—known as the Bundesmarine until its post-reunification renaming to Deutsche Marine in 1995—this special variant of the Blancpain Fifty Fathoms was delivered via the German aquatic equipment supplier Barakuda. While intended for military use, the watch later made its way into civilian retail channels. Though exact production numbers remain unconfirmed, it's widely believed that only 150 examples were ever produced.

Distinctive for its two-tone hour markers, the "Barakuda" stands out thanks to the striking red accents at the base of each index—adding an unexpected burst of color to an otherwise purposefully subdued design. This unique aesthetic, coupled with its military heritage, has made the Barakuda one of the most sought-after Fifty Fathoms references among collectors.